Showing posts with label florence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label florence. Show all posts

3/29/14

s&t go to italy



The rush of scurrying about Italy for a summer leaves me breathlessly nostalgic. One highlight of the summer was S's turn to visit Italy - his first ever time - and watching the absolute magic of the cities, sights, and foods sink into him. We had an (almost) impossibly long to do list, but I proudly can say that we checked most things off. I was proud because I was kind of an unofficial tour guide, cappo di gruppo, for a week - which had its trying times. For instance my stupid idea to tackle Rome in only one day left me exhausted and frazzled to say the least. Other times were much less rigorous and molto relassante. Such as our beautiful nights in Florence. Wine tasting in Montalcino and Montepulciano. I think my love obsession for Tuscany rubbed off on S.

And so, I give you, a little taste of our Italian travels!

ciao, xo

9/24/13

a florentine morning

Living in Florence this summer making videos feels like eons away, another lifetime. Some of the fondest memories I have, besides meeting too many fantastic individuals, were my solo morning outings in the Florentine fog. I so enjoyed walking down the cobblestone streets, by quiet cafes stocking up for the day, and by the merchants at the market setting up their leather bags and goods for display. Florentine mornings still have that mysterious, eerie feel to them - it must have felt that way during the height of the Renaissance, too - or is that characteristic something I just attach to what I know about Florence?

The bats screech in the morning and the Duomo doesn't necessarily pierce the sky, but dominates with a thundering certainty. The bells of the tower woke me up every morning at precisely 7:00 am. Next door to our apartment was Verrazano Cafe, a small and quintessentially Florentine spot that I somehow walked past every day on my way to another cafe. Silver espresso machines hiss and steam up countertops, men converse (or argue?) animatedly in front of open electric truck doors, and miraculously the streets are still void of tourists so early. Men in suits have newspapers folded under their arms and huddle in front of impressive building doors; an office to somewhere. Stacks of crates holding glass bottles of acqua are trustfully left unattended at store fronts waiting to be loaded in. Some tired, groggy travelers wheel in luggage on the uneven cobblestones, but that's the only staccato that breaks the constant yet serene hum of the morning. Foreign salesmen adorn their vendor tents with belts, and street sweepers spray the grey stone ground, cruising by the sides of buildings. Waiters set tables for the day, clinking the occasional glass and silverware.


One time on my morning adventures I was actually too early for a cafe I wanted to go to. So I started heading back to the apartment, known as Tav, for Tavolini. I stopped to take pictures of the bats, which still fascinate me - and a college aged girl interrupted me and said, "excuse me, are you the vlogger?" That was my celebrity moment! Her name was Margot, I think, and she was oh so kind. I don't think I'll ever be "spotted" like that again. But besides the vanity and the lattes and the elaborate morning routine of Florence, it is breathtaking and so comforting to me.

8/15/13

my florence must sees

Salumeria Verdi, also known as Pino's Sandwiches. For a true, authentic off-the-beaten-path simple lunch, this was my go to all summer. I recommend La Bomba panini if you're into the spicy stuff, like me; but I found myself falling in love with Pino's daily selections of pasta. For 3,50 euros each? You can't go wrong.

Mostodolce. This place is such a great find - not many tourists know about it (until now)! The pizzas are thin, crispy and delicious. The margherita pizza will leave you feeling light and happily satisfied - they way that Italian pizza is supposed to make you feel. One thing you can't pass up at Mostodolce is the beer. They brew their own beer and it's the perfect accompaniment for your dish. The portions are nicely sized, and it's a short walk from Firenze S.M.N.

Perche No! Gelateria. This gelateria was literally across the street from an old residence of mine; bad thing or good thing? I'd say good. :) You know that this place is authentic and fresh just by looking at their selections of gelato. It makes sense: if the displays are beautiful, heaping mounds of gelato, how is that fresh? You want the stuff that was made this morning, not the stuff that has been sitting there all day.

Gatto e Volpe. The atmosphere at Gatto is familial and jolly. The food is typical, uncomplicated Tuscan - and the price is right. I enjoyed the penne alla vodka - but their contorni are hard to pass up, too. My recommendations are the roasted potatoes and spinach. The waiters here are great, they'll take good care of you. You'll love the ambience here, a nice place for big groups with plenty of vino for the table!

Chiaroscuro. This cafe is a fun, hipster-y alternative to the alluring cafes you'll find in Piazza della Repubblica. If you're in the heart of Florence, you're close to Chiaroscuro - it's located about five minutes from the Duomo. The interior decor is delightfully hipster in its own woody, modern-y way. I'd recommend the cappuccino - again, a classic.

Shake Cafe. Footsteps away from Firenze SMN, Shake became one of my favorite cafe finds on the last few days of my time in Florence - worst timing. The cappuccino, topped with a chocolatey powder and adorable latte art, was one of the best I've had in Italy.
One of the things I love most about Florence is the accessibility of it; everything is walkable and yet, it remains a genuine Tuscan city. You'll find yourself on a natural path - without a map - and passing by all the sights you've always wanted to see. In an order that makes sense in my head:
  • The Duomo, the Baptistery, and Giotto's Tower. Give yourself a moment to take in the impressive Piazza del Duomo - and just realize how many years of backbreaking work and painstaking engineering went into the buildings before you. To see it from an aerial view, I'd recommend climbing Giotto's Tower for ten euro - you get to see the Duomo, the signature peak of Florence. Because if you climb the Duomo, you can't see the Duomo...right?
  • The church of Orsanmichele, located on Via Calzaiuoli. Take a moment to go inside, and just think...it used to be a grain mill.
  • Piazza della Signoria. This may just be my favorite part of Florence, mainly because I have a thing for piazzas at night. See the loggia, grab a cappuccino or a late afternoon beer in the restaurants surrounding the Palazzo Vecchio. It's all beautiful. If you're lucky, maybe you'll hear an orchestra or choir performing for the crowds.
  • Santa Croce. This church is another favorite, a close second behind Orsanmichele - get up close and personal with Galileo, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and a Medici here and there.
  • Uffizi. Even if you don't go in, pay homage to the greats of the Renaissance era and beyond as you walk through the corridors beneath the Uffizi - they are all honored with statues leading up to my next sight, the...
  • Ponte Vecchio. This is a Florence classic. It is fun window shopping and a must-see; you can't not take a walk over the Old Bridge. For an even better view of the bridge over the water, take a walk down further west and see the side that most tourists don't see coming right out of the city's center strip.
  • Piazza Michelangelo. This view of the city is worth the hike up (it's really not that bad). Once you're up there, enjoy a spritz or simply stare in awe at the Florence skyline. You'll be impressed with how the Duomo really does dominate the city, and how the Ponte Vecchio gracefully stretches over the Arno. Snap a picture or two, and head down for a lovely dinner.
another tip: here's a nice article about finding good quality, free wifi connections in Florence. In a nutshell, don't be afraid to ask: posso avere un password?

ciao! xo

8/4/13

coffee diaries | gilli



My coffee diaries post from Gilli, I thought at first, was kind of a joke. Now this may be because it is my first international coffee diary entry, but I did feel a little intimidated after walking into the cafe, established in good old 1733.  The barista was definitely salaried. It was definitely going to be expensive. I was definitely not going to fit in.

And I didn't. But it's  okay. Looking back, Gilli was an experience I had to have. And compared to other lattes, it wasn't that good. All a part of the adventure, I suppose. Now, italian cappuccinos are different. I treat them differently. These Italian cups of heaven are made perfect when those two packets of brown (or white, ugh) sugar plop down to the bottom. Little stir, then sip. Standing up. I definitely didn't stand there and savor this - I am pretty sure I remember wanting to get out of there as soon as I could because I stuck out like a sore thumb after snapping these pictures (side note: that is a fear I'd have to overcome if I ever wanted to be a National Geographic photographer, huh?).

Should you go to Gilli? Yes. Should you feel as conspicuous as I did? No. Next time I go back I will stand my ground and sip that cappuccino with vigor.

Via Roma 1/R
Firenze, 50123