Aperitivi: The Spritz

 An Aperol spritz is probably the most summery drink you can make; it ranks along side of refreshing mojitos and sangria (in my book). So I thought I'd kick off December, the unofficial start of the Christmas season, with a really summery drink! It makes no sense other than over Thanksgiving break I was really craving this drink, so I whipped up a few. First thoughts: man, is it strong! and also, man, is it easy to make! I can't wait to make more again for future gatherings now that I know how to do it. It requires 4 basic ingredients, and is the most festive, flashy hue of orange you can imagine.

Let me start with an explanation behind my craving for this obscure beverage. As most things work with me...all roads lead to Italy! A spritz is a popular Italian aperitif, or aperitivo. It primes your appetite prior to a meal and is usually enjoyed with other fantastic italian classics, like cheeses and meats such as prosciutto or salame. This is shocking...but I have never actually had a full out "aperitivi" in Italy. I've had spritzes alone, but never with other appetizers. Sigh. Spritzes remind me of Florence, in particular a certain bar somewhere near Via Ghibellina. Whenever it was time to have a spritz, we would always proclaim that it was "spritz o'clock"! Any time can be spritz o'clock. It is just that good. It is a dry, almost bitter drink. Not sweet at all. It is, however, refreshing and light, and just as delicious as it looks!

So, anyway, I put this little shoot together to document my pre-Thanksgiving aperitivi. In a few words: it was awesome.

Ingredients:
- club soda
- Aperol
- champagne or prosecco (as you can see, I buy only the best)
- orange, sliced

You can find the recipe instructions here! If you're interested in other takes on the recipe, such as the use of prosecco, you can follow my pinterest board all about food. yum!

enjoy la tua bevanda! ciao, xo

montalcino & montepulciano

A lot of damage happens when I allow myself to re-read bits of Under the Tuscan Sun or this sleeper favorite of mine (which I think is much better!). Things happen. I have this sudden, fierce thirst for a bitter red wine. I remember certain smells, but mostly feelings. Feelings of anticipation. I go through old photos and relive every detail through my meticulously kept, leather bound journals. And that is exactly what happened here.

It was a hot July day and I had S with me in Italy. I had truthfully never felt the need to visit, as my heart and soul irrevocably belongs to Siena - but nevertheless, I was brimming with only the magical feeling of excitement that summertime in Italy conjures up. Seeing words on the map like Pienza, Val d'Orcia, Castellina in Chianti - they make my heart hurt, almost, I love those words so much.

Yellow hills and cypresses. Hot, dusty, summertime Tuscan air. Beginning in Montepulciano, a gem of a town: we toured an ancient and musty wine cellar, sampled the most crumbly delicious and piquant pecorino cheeses. The pairing of the supertuscans with this picante cheese...salty, bitter, dark, dry...just an oenophile's dream. I have a thing for Tuscan wines, particularly chianti. It is my all-time favorite, partially because it was my first. I am not a big white wine person, and it's very rare to find someone in Tuscany who disagrees with the idea that red is perfectly good in the summertime. And...non c'è bisogno di spendere tanto per bere bene. You don't need to spent a lot to drink well.

Sloping streets, walls doused in golden sun. The floor, the stones, the steps into shops and cafes all felt sacrosanct and ancient; the dirt on my feet felt holier than dirt. Aimless steps brought us to the vista over the Val d'Orcia. Even the valley, with soft hills older than time, seemed to stretch onward forever into green and blue oblivion. Each hill is a wrinkle in a face that's not afraid of aging. It's the most iconic of valleys, the one that you've seen before; in the morning the fog saunters in and stays low. It touches the bones of each cypress and leaves dew on the ochre bales of hay.

Time for pranzo (lunch!). We order light; pici pasta for two, with some acqua naturale. The shade feels good, but anything other than al fresco dining is ludicrous; but the we prefer somewhere sitting in the shade. The sun in July is strong yet easy to hide from, as the town is truly just a series of tall stony walls that cast a warm shadow. And as we leave, everything will be downhill and easy. Our feet will get dirtier. It reminds me of those summer days in Siena.

ciao! xo

le cinque terre

I was going through this old cinque terre post and it inspired me to edit some more unpublished photos here on the blog. I am so fortunate to have been here twice - and both times in the beautiful vibrant warmth of summer! On my last visit, S was with me and it was heavenly...we had the best time touring around! We locked our love on the via dell'amore, something I had wanted to do since first setting eyes on this place. That is what I love about Europe, and specifically Italy...there's an eternally growing bucket list that I have, and whenever i'm there so much seems possible and serendipitous.

I love you, Italy. As if you needed reminding...

ciao! xo

buon anniversario!

If it were up to me, May 18th would be an official holiday. It's my three year Sienaversary. Three years ago I hopped on a plane with complete strangers and began my study abroad experience.  I enjoyed life to the absolute maximum. I remember my thinking to myself, every night, no matter the occasion - I couldn't miss it. "Sleep when you're dead!" is exactly what I told myself. For a little while, Siena felt like the only other place on the planet that I knew. That summer really was one of a kind - the people, the gold man, the mid-day (sometimes twice a day) trips to Conad, skipping the bar for vino in the campo, the donkey garden, the fortezza, the awe-inspiring classes of Dr. Bruttini. I miss sitting on the warm Tuscan brick of the campo floor and writing in the journal. I miss the dry heat, the bats in the morning, the horrible internet connection. The bottiglie di acqua and coperti and the ritual of eating. I miss hanging my clothes on the line. I miss solo morning outings, like seeing the sun rise. I was so okay with being alone. Talking to a real Sienese here and there, being just as interested in them as they were in me. But the friends I was with made it all. Those total strangers became my good, good friends. I still count a few as my best. Words or photos are not enough.

ciao, xo

s&t go to italy

The rush of scurrying about Italy for a summer leaves me breathlessly nostalgic. One highlight of the summer was S's turn to visit Italy - his first ever time - and watching the absolute magic of the cities, sights, and foods sink into him. We had an (almost) impossibly long to do list, but I proudly can say that we checked most things off. I was proud because I was kind of an unofficial tour guide, cappo di gruppo, for a week - which had its trying times. For instance my stupid idea to tackle Rome in only one day left me exhausted and frazzled to say the least. Other times were much less rigorous and molto relassante. Such as our beautiful nights in Florence. Wine tasting in Montalcino and Montepulciano. I think my love obsession for Tuscany rubbed off on S.

And so, I give you, a little taste of our Italian travels!

ciao, xo

bellagio | como lago

Judging by these photos, I think in Bellagio I was feeling the tabletops, wisteria and duck shots. 

It was such a fine, beautiful and misty day. I can remember the train ride well.

Straining my eyes to see the swiss alps - but ah, just one too many clouds to block the view.

It was okay, I had my best friends with me and we had met a friendly duck.

We dined at a fancy hotel in Bellagio and I ordered my first ever margarita.

It was strong. Only a year later did my friend and I admit to feeling the effects of that one... :)
Everyone suspected but we happily denied it and just took in the views.

But it led to some mindless and utterly blissful walks through the streets of Bellagio,

scenic shots of the bluest water, truest green mountains, punctuated with pockets of golden rooftops.

I could feel George Clooney's presence that day...somewhere was his villa. Maybe the one above.
Calling my name...

Our day ended in a perfectly time, perfectly violent and crazy hailstorm. The day itself was perfect.

The hailstorm added a bit of frenzy that made us laugh, 

and I can giggle again even thinking about how amazed I was by it.

Was I even here to see those pastel colored houses and luscious hydrangeas?

Or the lightning storm over como lago with the boat on skis?

ah, another life it seems.

from guigno 2011.

ciao, xo

roma uncut

Use the password, "roma" :)

So I thought I'd put some of my amateur videography skills to work in a compilation that is a few months overdue. Obviously I am not in Italy anymore, but it's okay to make a video for Rome, right? So here it is - starring (sort of, not really) me. :) Enjoy it and please applaud me as I successfully toss the remnants of a gelato cone into my mouth. Little did you know, that is about the tenth take!

ciao, xo

pienza dreaming

As I stated yesterday I am in quite a blogging rut, and this collection of cheery, summery photos might just be the dose of inspiration I need. Pienza! A little commune in Tuscany right outside of my favorite, Siena. Photos from 2011.

When I think of Pienza...I think of penne alla vodka. I think of the smell of cheese wafting through the brown-walled streets. I think of quietness and bright Tuscan sunshine over the most beautiful vistas. Quintessential Tuscany. When I was in Pienza, I was studying abroad and I remember not being able to get over the view of the rolling hills of the countryside - the screeching birds that were flying in and out of eyesight. We had a once-in-a-lifetime lunch of penne alla vodka, among other things that I can't remember, made by monks in a monastery. 

It was something that I think back on now and wonder, how did I not write down the name of the place? Maybe all that matters is somehow I finagled the recipe out of someone who spoke to someone - and I can make the penne alla vodka all by myself here! I doubt it will be anything close to that experience though. We watched a mid afternoon thunderstorm roll by through the windows, and ate our lunches happily - "we" being some of the best friends I have ever made in my life.

the best food in italy

from the top: pizza margherita, nonno mede in siena | penne arrabiata in venice | gelato cioccolato, grom siena | roasted zucchini, carrot, peppers e pollo made by yours truly | fresh fruits and vegetables in positano | bruschetta from nonno mede in siena | cappuccino, florence (via calzaiuoli) | pizza margherita, o'vesuvio florence | a delicious dish of risotto e turkey in milano | penne con pesto (made my me!) | pollo alla griglia from la finestra, siena | pizza margherita, pompei pizza, pompei | just a breadbasket in milano | crema catalana, siena

- - -

I have been to italy threeeee times. three times! is that even real? man, I am blessed.

over that time span of three years, on those three different trips, i have been fortunate to eat some very good food.

I have come to the conclusion that I love quite a few of these things.

pizza margherita is clearly a theme here.

cappuccinos for breakfast? sign me up. I love the simplicity of italian mornings.

best dessert? gelato. cioccolato and frutti di bosco is a match made in heaven.

and pasta? oh boy. anything drenched in arrabiata or pesto has my name on it.

with all the contorni, and piatti, dining in italy can be reeeally expensive - especially when the portions are not jumbo-sized like they are here in the good old USA. it's hard to narrow down decisions, even if you're on a budget. I've been told so many tips, ideas, and things to look for when searching for places to eat while traveling. and my own advice is this: ignore the rules. Sometimes the places with the pictures on the menu actually are really good. Gelato twice a day is completely acceptable. Sometimes the items on the tourist menu are actually to die for. You've got to go in aware of your options. For instance, if you're going to Sicily, perhaps try the seafood. Or the Cinque Terre; try something with pesto alla genovese. Napoli, pizza. But don't write off anything because you're not in a specific, specialized area - be openminded!

and another thing - look. Look for the hidden osteria instead of the ristorante on the main piazza. Walk a little further than usual - not only will you build up the anticipation of your meal, but maybe you'll see something you've never expected. and who says you can't go into the supermarket and grab something to make on your own? that is, if you can...

ok - end rant on food. now, who's hungry!?

ciao, xo