buon anniversario!

If it were up to me, May 18th would be an official holiday. It's my three year Sienaversary. Three years ago I hopped on a plane with complete strangers and began my study abroad experience.  I enjoyed life to the absolute maximum. I remember my thinking to myself, every night, no matter the occasion - I couldn't miss it. "Sleep when you're dead!" is exactly what I told myself. For a little while, Siena felt like the only other place on the planet that I knew. That summer really was one of a kind - the people, the gold man, the mid-day (sometimes twice a day) trips to Conad, skipping the bar for vino in the campo, the donkey garden, the fortezza, the awe-inspiring classes of Dr. Bruttini. I miss sitting on the warm Tuscan brick of the campo floor and writing in the journal. I miss the dry heat, the bats in the morning, the horrible internet connection. The bottiglie di acqua and coperti and the ritual of eating. I miss hanging my clothes on the line. I miss solo morning outings, like seeing the sun rise. I was so okay with being alone. Talking to a real Sienese here and there, being just as interested in them as they were in me. But the friends I was with made it all. Those total strangers became my good, good friends. I still count a few as my best. Words or photos are not enough.

ciao, xo

s&t go to italy

The rush of scurrying about Italy for a summer leaves me breathlessly nostalgic. One highlight of the summer was S's turn to visit Italy - his first ever time - and watching the absolute magic of the cities, sights, and foods sink into him. We had an (almost) impossibly long to do list, but I proudly can say that we checked most things off. I was proud because I was kind of an unofficial tour guide, cappo di gruppo, for a week - which had its trying times. For instance my stupid idea to tackle Rome in only one day left me exhausted and frazzled to say the least. Other times were much less rigorous and molto relassante. Such as our beautiful nights in Florence. Wine tasting in Montalcino and Montepulciano. I think my love obsession for Tuscany rubbed off on S.

And so, I give you, a little taste of our Italian travels!

ciao, xo

pienza dreaming

As I stated yesterday I am in quite a blogging rut, and this collection of cheery, summery photos might just be the dose of inspiration I need. Pienza! A little commune in Tuscany right outside of my favorite, Siena. Photos from 2011.

When I think of Pienza...I think of penne alla vodka. I think of the smell of cheese wafting through the brown-walled streets. I think of quietness and bright Tuscan sunshine over the most beautiful vistas. Quintessential Tuscany. When I was in Pienza, I was studying abroad and I remember not being able to get over the view of the rolling hills of the countryside - the screeching birds that were flying in and out of eyesight. We had a once-in-a-lifetime lunch of penne alla vodka, among other things that I can't remember, made by monks in a monastery. 

It was something that I think back on now and wonder, how did I not write down the name of the place? Maybe all that matters is somehow I finagled the recipe out of someone who spoke to someone - and I can make the penne alla vodka all by myself here! I doubt it will be anything close to that experience though. We watched a mid afternoon thunderstorm roll by through the windows, and ate our lunches happily - "we" being some of the best friends I have ever made in my life.

siena palio: 2 luglio 2013

 from the Drago contrada

 The town of Siena packs down the Campo with sand for the horses to run - this is the starting point.

Due anni fa...or to be precise, two and a half years ago, I studied abroad in Siena. In those short few weeks I fell in love with Tuscany. I know it is cliche, overdone, there's even movies about it - but I can surely say, now having lived in both Siena and Florence, that this is where I feel safe, familiar, and happy.

As a vlogger this summer I got to cover the Siena Palio and film around the city in the hours leading up to the big event. This legendary horserace has the city buzzing - it's not just anticipation, but it's the blood, sweat and tears (literally) of an entire city that have built up to this day. For a race that lasts approximately 90 seconds, there is a lot of raw emotion and tension that makes Siena tougher and less cozy. It's almost like a day of war in the city; you don't get a true every day glimpse of Siena on July 2nd. Contrade, the neighborhoods, battle through the streets by parading their colors and waving their flags proudly through the hot dusty Tuscan air. The tradition is so intimate and true that just being there in Siena to witness the preparations was an honor and a privilege. As a tourist you need to take a moment and realize that you're a guest in a medieval celebration that goes back further than you can comprehend.

During the Palio - well, those 90 seconds - I couldn't see a thing. Not one thing. I'm 5'2" and that's pretty short, even on the higher edge of the piazza del campo (which is inclined slightly). But after, the crowd mostly got angry - everyone except the winners. A fistfight quickly ensued, I was shoved around  and in a confused stupor, and the woman behind me (who threw a full water bottle in my direction earlier) was woefully sobbing loud, angry tears. The elite, the well-dressed Sienese aristocracy (or so it looked) watched over the chaos from the center balcony, dressed in eloquent jewelry and rich formal fabrics. Soon the craziness and the crowds died down, but there was a definite gloom over the contrade that had lost. I remember my professor telling our class that coming in 2nd place was like a fate worse than death - because you almost had the win, and lost it.

The Palio was an interesting day from an outsider viewpoint, but I don't necessarily consider myself a 100% outsider. I have lived, spent time, and learned a lot in Siena - and seeing the city on this monumental day was a whole new experience I can know say that I have.

ciao, xooooo!

dear Siena,

I have said many times I fell in love with you.

I don't know if love is a thing you can pinpoint or identify in a moment - maybe sometimes it is.

But with you, it was a series of moments and meals and people that made it all magical.

(( circa 2011))

You taught me to trust people - total strangers. 

You taught me to watch what I hang on the clothesline.

You taught me to be careful of how much vino to drink.

You taught me to take pleasure in the little things, like sitting in the Campo for an evening out.

You showed me the very best friends I ever made in college.

You gave me chances to practice becoming a better photographer.

I loved spending time note taking and journaling on your warm brick floor of the Campo.

I loved grocery shopping at Conad and struggling with buying stamps and bus tickets.

I learned that sometimes travel is a big mess, but it is mostly a fun, disorganized, spontaneous one.

One time a stranger ringed at the door - it was my land lord. 

But I was nervous to let her in, because I didn't know who it was.

When I finally figured out the door, and opened it up cautiously and slowly. 

She giggled at my reluctance.

"This is Siena...nothing to worry about. No one will come to get you, it's a small, safe town."

I felt foolish, but delighted. Before my trip I nervously purchased a just-in-case tube of Mace.

Never once had to use it. In fact, the only time I brought it out was in Rome.

my all-time favorite hang out in the entire country of Italy: the piazza del campo.

So, Siena, you're my little jewel - and the friends you introduced me to almost three years ago are still my favorite people.

You're still the home of the best ristorante in Toscana - la finestra.

Your history is understated compared to Florence, but still so rich and fascinating.

Every time I take a sip of red wine, it takes me to you. This time, this place, even if it is for a fleeting second.

a presto...

ciao, xo

snapshots from siena

I loved so many things about solo Siena mornings, one of which was the constant screech of the bats in the air. The light dawn hues in the sky illuminating the Duomo and the rest of the high-walled streets are really one of a kind. These photos above are from a particular morning I remember so vividly, from the end of June (2011) right before the Palio, which I would miss. I would go again two years later and finally see the horse race (click for that!).

Studying abroad in Siena was life-altering, and as cliche as it sounds, I stand by that statement. I think people probably think it is weird how in love I am with Siena and Tuscany and Italy in general. The taste of chianti wine still, for that infinitesimal first second it reaches my mouth, takes me directly to the campo. The warm bricks in the sun smelled a certain way. The nights were utter perfection - cool, blue, dark, and yet so inviting. The sporadic chants and beating of drums down the streets for the upcoming Palio was intimidating, and yet so, so cool. I felt like I was a part of something.

ah, Siena. You're my first travel love. Always, always.